Your facial routine is dialed in from TikTok tutorials and Sephora runs. Body care, though? Still a question mark. And once fall weather kicks in, that question gets louder, because dead cells build up faster, moisturizers stop sinking in and the summer glow starts to look dull by October.
Dermatologists say the fix is not harder scrubbing. It’s picking the right method for your skin and using it correctly. Here’s the head-to-head on dry brushing, body scrubs and chemical exfoliants, plus which one is actually worth adding to your cart.
Why Fall and Winter Weather Change Your Skin
When temperatures drop, the air pulls moisture out of your skin through a process called transepidermal water loss. Dr. Ava Shamban, a dermatologist, told Forbes that “As the water molecules are pulled out of the epidermis into the air, our skin becomes more like a dry sponge.” The result, she said, is skin that can feel “tired and dull, dehydrated and sallow” and sometimes tight or textured through fall into winter.
That shift is exactly why exfoliation matters more this time of year. Patricia Farris, MD, a dermatologist based in Metairie, Louisiana, told Everyday Health that “Exfoliating helps buff away dead skin cells and leaves skin looking smoother and more radiant.” Clearing out that buildup also lets your creams and serums sink in better, which Farris said supports a youthful glow over time.
Physical vs. Chemical Exfoliation: What’s the Difference?
There are two broad categories of exfoliation, and they work very differently. Physical exfoliators use a scrubbing agent to manually sweep away dead cells, while chemical exfoliators dissolve the bonds holding those cells in place. Choosing between them comes down to skin type, tolerance and what you’re trying to fix. Plenty of people end up using both, just not on the same day.
- Physical exfoliators contain finely ground grains or nuts that scrub the skin’s surface, Farris told Everyday Health. They can be applied with a cleansing brush, mitt, microdermabrasion device or your fingertips. “It increases circulation and gives your skin a bit of a glow,” Farris said. “It also leaves skin feeling smooth and silky.”
- Chemical exfoliators dissolve dead cells with acid. The two main families are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid, which are water soluble and loosen the bonds between dead cells, and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, which are fat soluble, cut through oil and work best on oily or acne-prone skin.
Body Scrubs vs. Dry Brushing: Which Works Better?
Body scrubs and dry brushes are the two most popular at-home tools, and they deliver noticeably different experiences. A scrub is a cream or oil loaded with granules like sugar, coffee grounds or clay microbeads, which you massage onto damp skin. Sonya Smith, a laboratory technician at Molton Brown, recommends using one once or twice a week. “Some people may notice an improvement in their skin’s texture and appearance within a few days, while others may not see results for several weeks,” Smith said.
Dry brushing uses a stiff-bristled brush (boar hair, plant-based or synthetic) on dry skin before you shower. It produces a distinct tingling sensation and has a loyal following for stimulating circulation. But it’s not for everyone. Gretchen Frieling, MD, a Massachusetts-based dermatopathologist, told Women’s Health that “Dry exfoliation, like dry brushing, offers a more intense level of exfoliation and can stimulate circulation, but it can be irritating if your skin is sensitive.”
Many dermatologists lean toward chemical options for everyday use. Dr. Nicole Ruth told Women’s Health she prefers chemical exfoliation for most people because it’s more controlled and better tolerated long-term. Her go-to ingredients are lactic acid, glycolic acid and urea, which she uses to address rough, dull skin and keratosis pilaris. Ruth and Frieling both advise exfoliating after you wash, so the product works on skin rather than on sweat, oil and debris, and because wet exfoliation offers slip that’s gentler on most skin types.
How to Exfoliate Safely, According to Dermatologists
Even the right product can backfire if you overdo it. Winter is an especially easy season to over-exfoliate, since skin is already drier and more reactive, and layering too many active ingredients can leave the barrier raw. The American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends matching the method to your skin type and keeping the technique light, using small circles, short sessions and lukewarm water, never hot.
- Check your other products first. Retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide all increase sensitivity. Exfoliating on top of them can worsen dryness or trigger breakouts.
- Match the method to your skin. Dry or sensitive skin tends to do best with a washcloth and a mild chemical exfoliant. Oilier or thicker skin can usually handle stronger treatments or mechanical exfoliation.
- Be cautious with pigmentation. People with darker skin tones, or anyone who develops dark spots after burns, bug bites or acne, should avoid aggressive exfoliation because it can worsen pigmentation.
- Be gentle. Use small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. Never exfoliate over open cuts, wounds or sunburned skin.
- Moisturize right after. Exfoliating is drying by nature, so follow with a hydrating cream or body lotion while skin is still damp.
- Don’t overdo it. The more aggressive the method, the less often you should use it.
